Adventures on the Tour du Mont Blanc
The day after the races ended we set out from Chamonix on our own trail adventure - circumnavigating the Tour de Mont Blanc. Herewith is our story, heavy on details likely most interesting only to those who love us most but possibly helpful for anyone planning the same.
I also posted a list of helpful tips for planning here.
Circumnavigating the Tour du Mont Blanc (counter-clockwise)
Day 1: Les Houches to Nant Borrant, France (14+ miles via Alternate Stage 1)
After some back and forth in planning, we decided to start in Les Houches rather than Chamonix. When in doubt, go with the traditional. We grabbed a bus in Chamonix after dropping our bags off at our return hotel Le Vert (they all seem to let you leave bags) and so it began.
It's a little confusing to find the TMB signs unless you know what to look for but if you walk along the main street you'll eventually find the signs and the path upwards to the left. It helped to run into a fellow American who'd scouted it out before. This was a good warm-up for what was to come along the TMB in the days ahead. Big views, a huge climb, a knee-crushing descent, a little bit of rolling then more up, more down, up, down, up, down. The final descent into Les Contamines came via fire roads that lead us through the center of town past postcard-perfect homes with vibrant flower window beds.
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| What goes up... |
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| Must go down. |
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| Or just hang out and graze. |
Day 2: Nant Borrant to Cabane du Combal, Italy (17+ miles via the TMB variante to Col des Fours)
The day began with cool temps, a climb, and a fabulously french croissant-and-coffee breakfast. We also opted to get the picnic lunch from Nant Borrant so we could eat when we wanted. Dana popped a happy birthday sign on my backpack and we were off (it was my birthday). "Take me to another country!" I shouted. "Let's celebrate meeeee!"
We trekked upwards towards the Col du Bonhomme - about 2850 feet of elevation gain in 3 miles - where large patches of snow and mud greeted us across a vast ridge line of rock. We followed the TMB variante signs for the Col des Fours - one of the two highest points along the TMB at 8743 feet - and after a few pics in the clouds, started the inevitable downward journey to the next valley.
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| This Virgo doesn't get much snow on her birthdays. Big day! |
The hike to the border at Col de la Seigne felt mentally relentless - another 2400 ft gain in about 4 miles. Dana and I were separated, playing our own mind games to get us up and over. It was getting colder. Eventually the top came into view and then a lone Italian flag flapping in the wind. Ciao, Italia!
And then - down. Down into the Vallon de la Lee Blanche green from runoff and ringed by jagged peaks. A few mountain bikers passed us going up - people mountain bike the TMB?! We came upon what would've been the absolutely coolest place to stop for a snack at La Casermetta only to learn that it was a museum about the TMB. We skipped the cultural tour and kept on walking down past the adorable Refuge Elisabetta, along a fire road towards "Lac Combal" (more a series of ponds and streams and river) and the Val Veni and ultimately, our home for the night. I was done.
Accommodations: I'd forgotten that I'd booked a private room at Cabane du Combal months ago. I was so tired as we checked in that when the manager showed us our room on the first floor (no steps!) - with bath (no sharing!) - I felt tears inside my head. It was the gift of my birthday dreams - that and hiking in snow towards Col du Bonhomme. And being mid-adventure with my awesome adventure partner. Dana surprised me with candles at dinner and enlisted our newest dinner friends - Desmond and Ann from Minnesota - to get the whole place to sing happy birthday. We dined on soup and pork and mashed potatoes and something dessert-y with birthday candles. Happy birthday to me! And thank you, D!
Day 3: Cabane du Combal to Courmayeur, Italy (12+ miles)
"Easy" day! Beautiful day! Possibly one of the best stretches on the whole trail. Cool temps and sun the entire time!
We had a fairly "relaxed" climb out of Cabane du Combal - maybe 1500 ft gain over 3km - with the whole southern face of Mont Blanc unfolding across the valley. A group of tourists heading in the opposite direction advised us to walk around to the other side of a small lake near the top and as we did, the great Mont Blanc massif was reflected in the water .It was absolutely stunning - a shot they use to promote the UTMB, so I was told. One of my favorite photos of the trip.
The trail meandered for a bit with a rolling cadence - I think this is where we actually started running for the first time! - before dropping into the start of a ski resort and the Rifugio Maison Vielle - an overnight hut, a perfect stop on the UTMB course, a supremely cool looking ski resort bar and for us - a quick cafe and cocoa before the descent. Which was steep and long but not tragic (2395 ft drop in about 5km).
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| Ski lift! |
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| Super cool mid-mountain ski stop |
We walked along the edges of the ski area, taking the tightest switchbacks I'd ever seen, past chairlifts and gondolas, as Courmayeur came into view way, way down in the valley. From high up it looked like a smaller Chamonix. As we neared the bottom we passed through the small village of Dolonne. It seemed deserted - or at least boarded up for the season - but was fascinating for it's narrow streets, stone buildings and heavy wood doors. We stumbled into civilization, found our hotel just off the TMB path, checked in and went to find food. It was 2:30. Courmayeur was deep into siesta time.
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| Village of Dolonne |
Fear not, we found a fabulous cafe with gigantic salads and a side of pizza. Like the US but reverse, right? The giant pizza with the side salads? I just knew I needed carbs - I needed all the carbs. And I needed pizza in Italy. It was nice to walk along the small, cobblestone streets without many people - it gave us some downtime to relax, peek into all the super cool looking sports stores planning what we might buy, and catch up over wi-fi.
It was a little strange having so much down time to meander. And having to consider dinner options rather than someone putting it in front of us. I was getting used to the absolute surrender of wake, walk, stop, shower, eat, bed. It really took decision-making out of most days and I liked it. But Courmayeur - also known as the "sunny side" of the TMB - was a charming alpine town I could imagine coming back to in the winter when hot, winter, mountain adventure types fill the streets after hot, winter, mountain type adventures.
Note: Hotel Bouton D'Or has a 3D topo map that is horizontal underneath a glass table. Worth a look - it really gives you the perspective of the elevation dips and gains along the TMB. All the other topo maps we saw were hung vertically. Just a tip from fellow travelers that I'm passing on. Get a drink from the bar and marvel at where you've come from - and where you're headed.
Day 4: Courmayeur to La Fouly, Switzerland (20+ miles)
Amazing breakfast - the best of the trip. So much food - so many choices. And the individual pots of coffee/tea at every table - I mean, it makes you want to get the sterling silver set from your mom and serve coffee that way at home! So civilized. I ate as much as I could at breakfast and we purchased two to-go sandwiches from the front desk. All the carbs, none of the weight gain! We had a big day ahead.
We walked for awhile up through the neighborhoods of Courmayeur until we reached a fire road. We were now on the CCC course - the 101 km race that our friends Chris, Amy and Ken had finished on Saturday - so it was cool to consider that they'd been racing this same route - with hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of other runners.
And so began our first big climb (2500 ft in 4km). But I loved the uphills. LOVED.
The downhill came as it always does and I resumed my slower pace - a shell of my uphill diva. I couldn't run the downhills. Dana had a coke waiting for me when I bottomed out and we made our way to the next set of uphill switchbacks buzzing with a sugar fix. Another 2470 ft over 5 km to get to Switzerland. I stabbed the ground with my poles as I neared the end of the uphill thinking over and over again, "fuck you, mountain, fuck you." The view from where we'd come was spectacular, all along the length of the valley and the mountain range we'd just been running alongside. We were giddy with exhaustion and laughing at inane things but eventually got our asses up to the Grand Col Ferret....and Switzerland! It looked unremarkable given what we'd left behind. And in the far far distance I could see a valley - our home sweet home 3040 ft and 10 km away. All downhill to finish. Fuck you, downhill.
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| Doh - no views this way towards Switzerland |
All the views looking back on Italy and the peak we'd come from
We continued on until we reached the small town of La Fouly where I stopped at the market to get beer and gummy bears from a bin. When the woman at the register went to ring me up she asked me how many gummies I had. I said I didn't know - is that how you charge? She said yes and proceeded to take them out to count one by one with her hands sliding them across the counter before placing them back in my bag (I had 23 if you must know). Then she returned to the register. I loved the germ fearlessness of this life on the TMB!
Our hotel was at the end of La Fouly - we made it just in time to unpack, shower, catch up on wi-fi and sit down to dinner. We had a shared dorm room - 8 mattresses laid across the floor next to each other with 8 cubbies for our backpacks. We met Gene and Liz from Seattle (awesome) and another woman whose name I forget who said I looked familiar. Dana said I was a famous skier. Or maybe she asked if I was a famous skier. Either way, I won. 20+ miles/10 hours. Boom.
Accommodations: Hotel Edelweiss. Loved the single row of beds as opposed to bunk beds. Cubbies were awesome for having a place to unpack and store stuff. Dana snagged me a window spot which was perfection meaning I only had Dana to bump into in the night. Only 2 showers I think but getting there late means no wait. Dinner was a chicken curry on rice with veggie mix - delicious. There was also another faboo soup starter to get you warm and sated. Don't bother with any bread in Switzerland. It must not be their thing. Wine was cheap - drink all the wine. Slept long and hard.
Day 5: La Fouly to Trient, Switzerland (21+ miles via Alternative Stage 8 and the Fenetre d'Arpette)
We got up and out early into a cool, cloud-covered morning after loading up on the breakfast spread - a smorgasbord of carbs and good coffee. The first half of the day was noted as being "the easiest stage on the TMB" so we were prepped to hit it hard, move quickly and conquer the distance well under the "suggested" time. #squadgoals
For about 7 miles the trail meandered downhill along a river bed and through the trees. We passed small hamlets with old barns and Swiss chalets seeing no one before the trail turned upwards taking us towards Champex and a small mountain lake. As we stocked up on last minute snacks at the far end of Champex we saw our dinner companion from the night before - a curious, old man; not prone to much conversation - sitting quietly on a bench with his gear. Everyone navigates Mont Blanc to the beat of their own drum.
It was time to tackle our next stage - the Fenetre d'Arpette. It's one of the two highest points on the TMB along with the Col des Fours we reached on Day 2, but this time it came with an elevation gain of about 4000 feet in just over 4 miles. Lotta climbing. Lotta descent. The uphill started immediately but it was gentle and I kept asking Dana, "Is this the start of the climb?" We walked along a fire road through alpine meadows for awhile, chatting, relaxed. Then the trail turned to singletrack and we knew the real climb had begun. It wound back and forth along a stream, first through trees and shrubs, then past rocks, then over rocks, then past boulders, then over boulders - all in the beautiful and dramatic Val d'Arpette. In the far distance Dana pointed out our destination - a small dip between two peaks where tiny little figures could be seen standing. It seemed incomprehensibly far away.
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| Where we started isn't even shown here. Look top left and keep going. |
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| No views. |
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| Views! |
Dana bounced ahead navigating the boulders at the top and then the rock-strewn switchbacks below. The views were incredible as we followed the glacier's path down into a river where 2 other hikers had stopped to skinny dip. I ambled considerably behind with a gimpy knee but took in the sights with great appreciation for what we'd accomplished getting up to the Fenetre. By the time I got to the bottom of course, I just wanted to know where the hell Trient was. I'd soon find out another 35 minutes later after an easy-going single track and a walk through tiny Le Peuty.
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| That's Dana far ahead - still so much downhill |
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| The bottom! Almost. |
Day 5: Trient to Refuge la Flegere, France (13+ miles)
After back to back 20+ mile days - we woke with a modicum of leisure. Except that when you go to sleep at 8:30pm you're up at 5:30am. Ah well. We walked back through the village of Trient to take photos of the pink church before starting up on the singletrack towards France. Our mood was light - it was our last real day. One more day on the trails, one more day in the huts and then it would be over. Of course this was the day we stopped more than any other to check maps and signs. It was also the only day we got separated. But it was the only day we climbed ladders, too - so you know, it all balanced out.
It was a long but steady climb up to Col de Balme - by now that meant 2.8 miles with just a shade under 3000' gain. It also reunited us with our old friend Monty B who'd been out of sight for 2 days. At the top of the saddle, we paused at the border marking Switzerland and France before continuing down a rolling, gently graded fire road for almost 2 miles with beautiful views of the mountains ahead - Chardonnet, Verte and Drus, the Glacier du Tour and Mont Blanc. Dana found a steady running groove and while I ran for awhile, my knee betrayed me and I had to settle for a more leisurely pace.
It was here, wrapped up in the joy of running in such a beautiful place, that Dana took a left turn when she should have gone right. Out of my sight line, I had no idea. I continued right, made my way up another short climb to the Col des Posettes where I thought we'd reunite but alas, she was nowhere to be found. I ate a snack, admired the spectacular 360 views, found I had cel service and sent a few messages to Dana then made my way down a steep, singletrack through the woods - a merciful 4km with 2600' drop.
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| Texting Dana from Col des Posettes. I'm here. Where you at? |
Dana eventually realized she'd made a mistake and retraced her steps to course correct and go up to the Col des Posettes in search of me. Of course, by then I'd started to scramble down thinking we'd connect when our two paths intersected. She left me a note on a post at the top. I wonder who saw it and what they thought? Long story short, we did finally reunite hours later at the next stopping point - Tre le Champ. It was down a short road so while I spent some time waiting at the bottom, I later learned that Dana had spent time waiting at the top. A fellow hiker finally connected us. #tears And so we sat down in beautiful Tre le Champ, surrounded by picturesque homes, window box flowers and sun, had giant servings of quiche and shared the tales of our separate adventures and where Dana, admittedly, went so wrong. :)
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| Tre le Champ |
The rest of the day was spent mostly traversing the Grand Balcon Sud - taking us along the mountain's edge with spectacular, eye-level views of the Mont Blanc range and the Chamonix valley below. We ran into our friends Desmond and Ann from Cabane de Combal via Minnesota (they were navigating the TMB in the opposite direction), spent a luxurious 20-30 minutes catching up and then worked our way through a series of ladders fixed into the rocks. These were fun - no lie. I think more fun going up than going down but I only know from my experience. Eventually we topped out at the crossroads for Lac Blanc and descended along a rolling/uphill-ish singletrack that dropped us into a ski area, past a few last ibex sightings, and finally at the Refuge la Flegere.
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| The view from the Refuge. Storms rolling in. |
Our last day on the trails and clouds enveloped the mountains with rain forecast. We took our time getting out the door and started off at a leisurely pace along a relatively flat and pleasant section. We hiked about 2 hours until we reached the cable car at Plan Praz which we'd already planned to take down to Chamonix. But first - hot cocoa inside by a window to take in the last views and celebrate our adventure. The ride down was a perfect opportunity to appreciate the elevation and surrounding scenery once more, relax and give thanks for the amazing weather we'd had all week.
In town we stopped for soup and salad where 2 woman from LA sitting next to us thought we were European mountaineers - or professional climbers, I can't remember. Either way - winning!
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| Last views from the trail. |
Accommodations: Le Vert Hotel. They let us leave our bags here for the week we were on the trail and let us check in early when we returned. So, super cool. Though we had big plans to head back into town for pizza we ended up joining the locals at the adjacent bar to Le Vert eating burgers, drinking beer, and watching the rain fall. Chill bar scene, good beers on tap, cool people.
Days on the trail: 6.5
Total miles: 100+
Elevation gain/loss: 36,000
Toenails intact: All
Birthdays celebrated: 1
Packing: Near perfect
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